New to Door Slammers 2 and have no idea where to start? Well, this is for you. Here’s your beginners guide to tuning each component of your brand new race car by your favorite semi-intelligent moron, Zakk Golley!
Engine: The best option for open heads up racing engine-wise is a twin turbo mountain motor setup. When you’re done, it should make 4,470 horsepower. However, if you’re looking to back it off for class racing or no prep, your best option is to use a crank driven procharger, as they work best at low horsepowers. It’s important to note that we’re considering anything under 3,000 horsepower to be low in this instance.
Chassis: For the physical chassis of the car, it’s important to take traction into consideration. Traction in real life is how well your tire grips the ground. In the game, it’s a delicate balance of how much power you can safely throw at the track surface whilst using minimal amount of added traction aids. What I mean when I say added traction aids are chassis, traction bars and wings. For each of those three traction aids, you have three options. Wing choice doesn’t matter, choose whichever you feel looks the best, or none at all. The choice is yours. However, the chassis and traction bar choice is an intricate process. Said process partially involves horsepower. For instance, what I feel the best combo is for a screw blown/twin turbo car is a full tube chassis, ladder bars and a wing. My go-to naturally aspirated combination is a wing and traction bars only.
...and now we get into the technical stuff, which is the transmission. The transmission is the biggest tuning feature in the game, which with practice, can be mastered easily. First of all, the best gear module to use is a six speed because it has the most adjustability. The numerical figures are the gear ratios. A lot of people have trouble figuring out gear ratios when they first start off, so if you’re having issues with this, you’re not alone. So basically, the higher a number is, the faster the car will accelerate in that gear. The downside of a higher gear is that it stops accelerating at a lower mph. What you do is you take it gear by gear. Run a high first gear, and have the gears get lower and lower until your sixth gear, which you want to stop accelerating as soon as you go through the quarter mile traps. Most of the time, having your sixth gear peak going through the stripe isn’t possible, so you’re better off having it peak slightly before the stripe rather than after. Now that your gearing is set, you have to work on your converter. Firstly, your rev limiter should always be at 9800 and your stall should always be at 8000 unless the class you’re building a car for requires it to be less (i.e Ultra Street at 6000). You want to shift before the car hits the rev limiter, so you’re best putting your shift light at 9500-9600. 9700 is cutting it too close, as over-revving a gear could cause you to slow down over a tenth of a second. With your launch, it’s best to be anywhere from 5500-7500 depending on where the rest of the car is configured. Now, congratulations, you have completed the hardest part of the tuning process.
Wheelie bars in Door Slammers can be a very useful tool. I like to think of them as a safety net, setting them to eight inches to catch the car if it goes up on the back wheels. Tires all depend on the class you’re racing in. Different classes have different requirements, but for an all-out car of any category, 34.5x17s are the best option. For front wheels, the bigger the wheel, the harder the car leaves. Body: The only things that matter tuning wise are body and weight. For the body option, you always want it to be slammed. Weight should always be set to only carbon driveshaft. Everything else is personal preference.
Tuning: Let’s start with the engine setting first… simply put, you want to put the setting where your car won’t blow up. For most cars, that’s either high or meet god. Next, we have the instant center. You should see a side view of your car. In the side view, you have a little yellow ball. That yellow ball is called the instant center, which you may also see referred to as the center of gravity. The further up and back you have that ball, the harder the car leaves. You want to get to a point where the car picks up the front wheels and just hovers the bumper/wheelie bars off the ground for 200 feet. Hitting the wheelie bar or bumper too hard will slow you down. Gearing doesn’t matter much if you’re doing your own tuning, it basically sets up the area in which your transmission gearing will be, for lack of better wording.
The shocks have the same effect as the instant center… The higher the shock digits, the harder the car will leave. Don’t get caught up in soft/medium/stiff shocks, just treat it as increasing digits.
116/Alcohol are the best fuels. Some classes will limit your fuel, which doesn’t matter much in the long run.
In the boost section, you have an option for a boost controller. Those can be highly valuable with turbo/nitrous cars as you can allow for power to come in at a steady rate.
Line locks in a doorcar allows for you to hold the brakes and do a burnout without the car rolling forward and going through the beams.
Delay boxes are also something you’re going to want. In bracket racing, it will allow you to delay your reaction time so you can leave on the top bulb instead if the bottom. Heads up racing, you’ll still need a box because you’ll be about .400 red with a typical heads up car. You can add 400 to the box to balance that out.
Timing retards are like boost controllers for naturally aspirated cars. I don’t use them much, but some people find them useful in no prep or radial tire racing.
Concluding statements: If you found any of that confusing, don’t hesitate at all to contact me! I can be reached through any of these.
Facebook: Zakk Golley